|
When it comes to selecting backings, knowing what backings other
embroiderers use with a particular garment is a good start. Unfortunately,
this information may not provide all of the answers or, for that
matter, any of the answers for your particular machine or design.
Stability of the garment fabric, stitch density, color, stitch length,
stitch speed, size of the embroidery, and stability of the design
are some of the variables that can influence backing selection.
Attending an embroidery trade show is another good source of current
product, pricing information, and application ideas. At least one
of the exhibiting backing suppliers will have samples large enough
to work with. Most shows also hold embroidery seminars that can
be very helpful.
Fabric stretch is probably the most important factor in selecting
backing. No matter what type, backing has to be stable enough to
prevent movement during the stitching process. There are many different
fabrics and many qualities within those types. Experimentation is
often needed even when changing blank suppliers of what appears
to be an identical garment. A fabric’s structure (weave or
knit pattern) is apt to be a better indicator of stability than
weight alone. This is particularly true of golf shirts.
How well you hoop your fabric has an impact on the finished product.
Poor registration can occur from loosely hooped or insecurely hooped
garments. This is not a backing problem. A secure grip on thick
or slippery materials can be gained by using higher hoops. Fabric
tension in the hoop can be checked by pushing your finger across
the fabric. If you see wrinkles, your tension may be too loose.
How much backing inventory you want to carry is another variable
not often discussed by backing suppliers. A small contract embroidery
shop can complete most work with just two items: 1) a 2 oz/yd2 tearaway
and 2) a 2.5 oz/yd2 cutaway. The larger shops will add a 3 oz/yd2
tearaway for caps and a roll of Peel and Stick for problem applications.
Specialty embroiderers and large manufacturers tend to stock a broader
range of products.
The least expensive way to acquire backing is to buy full or half-width
rolls. This option allows the small embroiderer to have a sensible
backing inventory of only two or three rolls. These rolls can be
used for most any design requirements no matter what its size. Backing
suppliers can supply precut sheets in virtually any size requested.
The popular sizes are 6-, 8-, 12- and 15-inch squares. These sizes
are usually stocked items. The additional cost for cut sheets is
nominal. Cutting your own sheets can be a false economy. This is
particularly true if your operators do it by hand or with a semi-automatic
system. Some frugal users purchase cases of 15x15-inch sheets and
cut them down with a paper cutter to maximize their use.
Be cautious in using materials not specifically designed for embroidery
backing. These products frequently are seconds and contain errors.
Some products have large variations in weight. Extreme shrinkage,
particularly dryer shrinkage, and bleeding colors are two other
problems that can arise. Puckering can occur when using an inappropriate
material with too much stretch. The use of poorly performing products
can test an operator’s stamina. The cost per garment for backing
of any type is very small. However, using the wrong backing can
be expensive.
In general, a large detailed design with filled areas embroidered
on an unstable knit might use a heavier backing than a small design
on a stable woven fabric. However, this rule is broken on a regular
basis. We recently saw a very acceptable 56,000-stitch design done
on a T-shirt using two layers of tearaway. Selecting the right type
of backing is a key decision.
A tearaway is the backing of choice for most embroiderers. Designs
can usually be finished more quickly, safely, and cheaply with a
tearaway than with a cutaway material. If you cut one expensive
garment, the advantages of tearaways will be with you for life.
Most tearaways range in weight from 1 to 3 oz/yd2. To perform well
as a backing, a tearaway should be stable and able to withstand
repeated perforations. The backing should tear easily and cleanly
in either direction. This seems obvious but some embroiderers are
still using backings that tear only in one direction. These products
have to be tugged at, leave long strings of fiber, and take some
courage to remove. Pulling a tough tearaway too hard or too quickly
on a delicate long stitch design can needlessly cause distortions.
No matter the type of tearaway, the accepted wisdom is you should
tear the backing as close to the stitches as possible to reduce
any chance of distortion. Using two light layers of tearaway pulled
off one at a time is a technique that can avoid a distortion problem.
However, this procedure is relatively expensive and time consuming.
Finally, in choosing a tearaway, most embroiderers consider ease
of tear, cleanness of tear, hoop stability, and perforation resistance
as important factors in their selection process. Tearaways can be
used on most items but, in general, should be used with caution
on exceptionally delicate or stretchy fabrics such as loosely knit
sweaters. Swimsuits and socks are often exceptions to this rule,
and here a washaway/tearaway is a good choice.
Cutaways are needed to provide a stable base for delicate and stretchy
fabrics both during the stitching process and afterward. Some fabrics
are so stretchy they can force themselves down the throat plate.
A cutaway not only helps maintain the crispness of a design’s
details during the embroidery process, it also helps retain the
design’s shape after repeated washings. Having an angry customer
return a sagging or stretched design will remind you of a cutaway’s
advantages. A quality embroiderer should insist that cutaways are
both washable and drycleanable.
Accepted wisdom says you should not cut too close to the embroidery
with your scissors and that a gliding scissor motion rather than
a cutting one should be used. A cutaway that has some rigidity will
enable this gliding scissor motion. When cutting, both the backing
and the fabric should be kept in view. Do not allow the garment
to fold over. Some industry consultants recommend blunt-end scissors
to prevent snagging fabric. Many people use 3.5-inch to 4-inch double
sharps because of their general utility. Nippers are not particularly
useful for this operation.
Most cutaways range in weight from 1.5 to 3.5 oz/yd2. Cutaways,
in general, tend to be more resistant to needling perforations than
tearaways. In choosing a cutaway, most embroiderers consider ease
of cutting, wash stability, hoop stability, and perforation resistance.
Cutaways tend to have more bulk than tearaways. Softness, ease of
cutting, and stability can often be mutually exclusive properties
for cutaway backings. In some cases, the embroiderer needs to determine
which property is most important for a particular design. The softer
backings tend to have more hoop stretch and, accordingly, will not
allow as crisp a design as stiff ones.
Many different items may be classified under this heading. Some
of the major ones include:
This product is a tearaway backing with a pressure sensitive coating
and a release liner. Peel and Stick has three general uses: Hard-to-hoop
applications such as shirt collars, cuffs, etc; the stabilization
of high stretch fabrics such as bicycle shorts, promotional sweatshirts,
etc; and the elimination of hoop marks that can occur with certain
problem materials, such as brushed denim and suede. A good Peel
and Stick product should not have a gummy adhesive. The product
is generally used by hooping the backing with the release paper
facing upward. An X pattern is lightly cut in the hooped center
such that the release paper is sliced through but not the backing.
Enough of the release paper is peeled back so the portion of the
garment to be embroidered can be stuck to the backing. Every custom
shop should have a small roll of this product.
Most cap backings range from 2 to 3 oz/yd2 in weight and are tearaways.
A clean tearing product is generally preferred. Cap backing is used
to improve the crispness of lettering and columns. This is particularly
so with low profile and unstructured caps. There are several other
less obvious production benefits in using cap backing. Backing keeps
up the tension on the bobbin thread. This allows the embroiderer
to switch from flats to hats and back again without touching the
machine settings. The use of this backing can prevent cap fabric
and fiber from being forced down the throat of the machine. An extra
fold of backing can be used to get a firm seating on rotating cap
frames to prevent registration slips.
There are several medium weight fusible backing products available
that can be permanently fixed to garments with a hand iron. The
primary application for these products is to stabilize very stretchy
and hard-to-hoop materials such as fleecewear, leather, etc. Spray
adhesives can also be used to fix backing to fabric. The nasty solvents
and overspray problems often associated with spray adhesives make
fusible or peel and stick backings preferred in such applications.
A secondary application area for fusibles is as a cover for completed
embroidery designs that may have a rough surface or nibs on its
interior surface. This situation is often caused by metallic thread
due to its stiffness. This soft-to-the-touch fusible product adds
a permanent quality finish to a garment. For a little extra effort
you will receive compliments rather than complaints when using metallic
thread. Before using any fusible product, you should first check
that the garment can withstand hand ironing.
Puff backing is a lofty material used to generate a three-dimensional,
trapunto, or quilted look. Do not purchase puff too thick or you
will have difficulty completing the design. Before using puff products,
test them or at least receive a solid guarantee that the product
is washable and drycleanable. If the product washes down or falls
apart, the results for the consumer can be disappointing.
All components in children’s sleepwear should be fire retardant.
These binder-free backings meet this requirement due to their fiber
composition. Most materials range from 1.3 to 2.5 oz/yd2.
Black backings are used for dark garments, such as leather jackets
and black sweatshirts. The use of these products prevents the generation
of a distracting blaze in the interior of the garment that occurs
when white is used. Both tearaways and cutaways are available.
As a general rule, these films are used to prevent stitches from
sinking into high profile fabric, such as terry cloth or corduroy.
Available under a variety of trade names, they are composed of either
polyethylene or water soluble plastic. These films can be expensive
and some of the less expensive ones do not dissolve well.
Top
|
